Tartu & South Estonia by Car

Estonia's university city and intellectual capital — smaller than Tallinn but deeply engaging. The town hall square, the ruins of the 13th-century cathedral on Toome Hill, and the Emajõgi riverside are all beautiful. The café culture is excellent (Tartu people are famously welcoming) and the farmers' market on Saturdays overflows with produce. A very comfortable overnight base for the south Estonia loop.

Estonia's most celebrated winery produces berry wines from local currants, cloudberries, and cranberries — entirely unique to Baltic viticulture. The estate is set around a ruined medieval castle and an old manor. Tastings are available, and the shop sells bottles to take home. A perfect stop between Tallinn and Tartu — and a genuine surprise for wine lovers expecting only grapes.

One of Estonia's most extraordinary landscapes — a vast bog and flood plain wilderness where rivers overflow their banks in spring and autumn, creating a temporary “fifth season.” The bog boardwalk, the canoe routes through flooded oak forest, and the traditional dugout canoe (haabjas) experience are all unique. Soomaa is the kind of place that stays with you for years.

Arguably Estonia's most charming small city — castle ruins on a hill above a lake, a vibrant arts scene, independent cafés, and the famous Viljandi Folk Music Festival every July. The lakeside park and the hanging bridge are perfect for an afternoon stroll. The ruins of the Teutonic Order castle give panoramic views and a strong sense of medieval history.

Estonia's only proper highland area — rolling hills, mixed forest, and the pristine Pühajärv lake. In summer it's hiking and swimming country; in winter it transforms into Estonia's ski resort and biathlon venue. The winding roads between the hills are some of the most enjoyable driving in the country. The small spa hotels by the lake are excellent value.

The highest point in the Baltic states — Suur Munamägi (318 m) — sits in this deeply forested nature park on the Russian border. The observation tower gives a 360° panorama over a sea of trees. The ancient forest roads of Haanja wind through pine and spruce stands unchanged for centuries. The nearby Rõuge ‘singing valley’ (Lauluoru) with its seven lakes is one of Estonia's most magical landscapes.