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Hiiumaa County Travel Guide

Estonia's second-largest island — ancient lighthouses, pristine juniper meadows, a 500-year-old warning beacon, and the most peaceful silence you'll find in Northern Europe. Car is the only way to see all of it.

Hiiumaa is Estonia's second island and its most unhurried corner. With a population of just 9,000 spread across 1,023 km², the island moves at a pace that feels genuinely disconnected from modern life. There are no motorways, no chain hotels, and almost no tourists by mainland European standards. A car is the only way to experience Hiiumaa properly: the five lighthouses are spread across a coastline that no bus route covers, the birdwatching reserves require early morning flexibility, and the best smoked fish is sold from a quay you'd never find on a guided tour. Take the ferry from Rohuküla, drive off the ramp, and the island is yours.

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Getting to Hiiumaa

Ferry from Rohuküla (near Haapsalu) to Heltermaa: 1 hour crossing. Ferries run year-round, several times daily. Book your car ferry slot in advance for summer weekends — the boats fill up. Drive time from Tallinn to Rohuküla: approximately 1h 45min.

7 Hiiumaa Highlights Worth the Crossing

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Kõpu Lighthouse

Landmark · 50 km from Kärdla ferry

One of the oldest lighthouses still in operation in the world — built in 1531, it has guided ships through the treacherous Hiiumaa shoals for nearly 500 years. The tower rises 36 metres from a hilltop surrounded by ancient pine forest. Climb to the top for 360-degree views across the Baltic and, on clear days, the Estonian mainland. The drive through Hiiumaa's pine and juniper landscape to reach it is half the experience.

lightbulbVisit at sunset — the lighthouse is dramatically lit and the western sky over the Baltic turns deep orange
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Käina Bay Bird Reserve

Nature & Birdwatching · 25 km from Kärdla

A shallow bay with extensive reed beds that serves as one of the most important waterbird habitats in Estonia. Brent geese, barnacle geese, and thousands of waders stop here during spring and autumn migration. The observation tower at Käina gives views across the lagoon to the tiny island of Kassari. The Käina Bay Loop trail is 8 km through coastal meadows and reed edges.

lightbulbBring binoculars — migration peaks in May and again in September/October with thousands of birds simultaneously
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Kassari Island & Chapel Ruins

Scenic Drive & Heritage · 30 km from Kärdla

Hiiumaa's prettiest corner — a slender peninsula-island connected by a causeway, covered in ancient juniper heathland that is among the finest in Europe. The medieval chapel ruins at Kassari stand in a grove of gnarled junipers above the bay. The tip of the peninsula has one of the best views anywhere in Estonia: two bays visible simultaneously, the sea perfectly still.

lightbulbWalk the Sääre Tirp spit — a narrow strip of land extending into the sea, 3 km each way, views on both sides
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Tahkuna Lighthouse & Memorial

Lighthouse & History · 15 km from Kärdla

Estonia's northernmost lighthouse on Hiiumaa — a slender cast-iron tower built in 1875 that still flashes its warning over the North Estonian coast. Nearby, the 1994 Estonia ferry disaster memorial is a powerful and moving installation: a bell tower that chimes when the wind blows, dedicated to the 852 victims. The beach below the lighthouse is wild and usually completely empty.

lightbulbThe memorial bell is most evocative in autumn storms — the wind keeps it ringing continuously
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Ristna Lighthouse & Western Cape

Coastal Scenery · 60 km from Kärdla

The westernmost point of Hiiumaa — a remote cape where the open Baltic stretches to the horizon without another landmass in sight. The red-and-white striped lighthouse was built in 1874 and is still operational. The coast here is raw and elemental: smooth limestone slabs at the water's edge, sea buckthorn thickets, and constant wind. One of the most isolated places in Estonia.

lightbulbCheck weather before driving — the cape road is exposed and the lighthouse closes in severe storms
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Kärdla Town & Market

Town & Culture · 0 km — island capital

Hiiumaa's small and quietly charming capital — a cluster of wooden 19th-century buildings around a central square. The town was built around a cotton mill and has an unhurried pace that feels entirely separate from mainland Estonia. The Friday market sells local produce, smoked fish, handmade crafts, and juniper berry preserves. The Hiiumaa Museum in the old power station explains the island's history.

lightbulbThe bakery on the main square opens at 7 am — fresh Estonian cardamom rolls and rye bread to start the day
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Orjaku Harbour & Smoked Fish

Food & Coast · 35 km from Kärdla

A tiny working fishing harbour on the south coast with a genuine local smokehouse that produces some of the best smoked sprat and eel in Estonia. The harbour wall looks across Käina Bay toward the mainland. Fishing boats come and go throughout the day; if you time it right you can buy direct from the boat. The landscape here — flat meadows meeting the sea — is classic Hiiumaa.

lightbulbArrive between 11 am and 1 pm when the morning catch is being smoked and sold from the quay

Suggested 2-Day Hiiumaa Route

Day 1

North — Tahkuna, Kärdla & Kassari

Ferry Rohuküla → Kärdla → Tahkuna Lighthouse → Kärdla Market → Kassari Island

Take the morning ferry from Rohuküla (1 hour crossing). Drive north to Tahkuna lighthouse and the Estonia memorial. Return to Kärdla for lunch and the museum. Afternoon: drive south to Kassari Island and walk the Sääre Tirp spit at sunset. Overnight in Kärdla or Kassari.

Day 2

West — Kõpu, Ristna & Käina Bay

Käina Bay Reserve → Kõpu Lighthouse → Ristna Cape → return ferry

Morning birdwatching at Käina Bay (arrive early for migration activity). Drive west across the island to Kõpu Lighthouse — climb for the views. Continue to Ristna Cape. Return via Orjaku Harbour for smoked fish. Catch the afternoon ferry back to the mainland.

Hiiumaa in Summer

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White Nights

In June the sun barely sets — golden light at 11 pm over Kõpu lighthouse is one of Estonia's most photographed scenes

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Peak Migration

May and September bring spectacular bird migration through Käina Bay — sometimes 10,000+ birds visible simultaneously

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Wild Swimming

Hiiumaa's remote beaches are clean, calm and rarely visited — ideal for wild swimming from June through August

Book Your Car Before the Ferry

CarRental.ee lets you pick up in Tallinn, drive to Rohuküla, take the ferry with your car, and explore Hiiumaa at your own pace. There is no car rental on Hiiumaa island itself — you need to bring your car on the ferry. The crossing takes one hour; the island repays every minute of the journey.

The Island Is Waiting on the Other Side of the Ferry

Five lighthouses. Ancient juniper meadows. The most peaceful corner of Estonia. All you need is a car and a ferry ticket.

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Hiiumaa County Travel Guide — Estonia's Second Island by Car | CARRENTAL.ee | CARRENTAL.ee